“Slow boats, beautiful valleys and remnants of war”

The view from the top of top Pha Daeng Peak The view from the top of top Pha Daeng Peak

From Chiang Rai we joined many other travelers on the active (and sometimes chaotic) journey by slow boat on the Mekong River from Thailand across the border into Laos and eventually down to Luang Prabang From Chiang Rai we joined many other travelers on the active (and sometimes chaotic) journey by slow boat on the Mekong River from Thailand across the border into Laos and eventually down to Luang Prabang

The boats mostly use old bus seats held down by some bricks (if you’re lucky) and they pack as many people, luggage and anything else into these very long but surprisingly nimble boats The boats mostly use old bus seats held down by some bricks (if you’re lucky) and they pack as many people, luggage and anything else into these very long but surprisingly nimble boats

The journey took two days with a stop overnight in a small riverside town in Laos The journey took two days with a stop overnight in a small riverside town in Laos

We’ve been enjoying the discovery of new tuktuk styles across different parts of South East Asia and Laos is just as diverse We’ve been enjoying the discovery of new tuktuk styles across different parts of South East Asia and Laos is just as diverse

Typically the “Skylab” or “Jumbo” versions (like this one) are fitted with a motorbike engine, fuel tank, handlebars etc and carry eight people (but usually many more)

After visiting some beautiful temples and hiking to the top of town, we took some time out to slow down and attempt some glamping at a nice eco lodge only a few kilometers from Luang Prabang After visiting some beautiful temples and hiking to the top of town, we took some time out to slow down and attempt some glamping at a nice eco lodge only a few kilometers from Luang Prabang

This was our first chance to swim in an offshoot river of the Mekong and despite the chilly temperatures it was refreshing and fun! (definitely channeled our Nonie and Lachie courage for this cold dip in fresh water) This was our first chance to swim in an offshoot river of the Mekong and despite the chilly temperatures it was refreshing and fun! (definitely channeled our Nonie and Lachie courage for this cold dip in fresh water)

Tyce has been hunting down every roti variant we could find since landing in Singapore and this Indian version stuffed with chicken and herbs from the night market in Luang Prabang did not disappoint Tyce has been hunting down every roti variant we could find since landing in Singapore and this Indian version stuffed with chicken and herbs from the night market in Luang Prabang did not disappoint

Traveling further north east into Laos we arrived at the quiet and very peaceful town of Nong Khiaw Traveling further north east into Laos we arrived at the quiet and very peaceful town of Nong Khiaw

Nong Khiaw is known for its breathtaking views of mountains, hikes, waterfalls and caves so we settled in for a few days of relaxation and chill time

Similar to the northern Thai sausage from the last newsletter, “sai kok” is a delicious Laotian pork dish made from lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, red chilis, garlic, shallots, and fish sauce Similar to the northern Thai sausage from the last newsletter, “sai kok” is a delicious Laotian pork dish made from lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, red chilis, garlic, shallots, and fish sauce

We had this paired with sticky rice, jeow mak keua (spicy eggplant dip) and kaipen (a delicious snack made of fresh water green algae that’s been beaten and dried then mixed with garlic, vegetables, and sesame seeds — sort of similar to dried nori)

Our riverside home stay had stunning views at all times Our riverside home stay had stunning views at all times

We lit a few mozzie coils, put some chilled tunes on, shared a cold Beerlao and watched the sun go down each night We lit a few mozzie coils, put some chilled tunes on, shared a cold Beerlao and watched the sun go down each night

We learned during this trip just how much Laos and Cambodia were also devastated by bombs during the Vietnam War and signs like this were abundant throughout the country. Laos is still the most bombed country per capita in the world We learned during this trip just how much Laos and Cambodia were also devastated by bombs during the Vietnam War and signs like this were abundant throughout the country. Laos is still the most bombed country per capita in the world

Unfortunately the town of Nong Khiaw became one of the most heavily bombed areas of the war when north Vietnamese forces moved over the border into Laos and the U.S followed

Around 1/3 of the bombs dropped on Laos didn’t explode on impact and the country has suffered many injuries since the war due the 80 million unexploded ordnance (UXO’s) still buried across the country

We took on a more challenging hike than we’re used to (ask anyone — we’re not hikers) to see the valley that Nong Khiaw sits in We took on a more challenging hike than we’re used to (ask anyone — we’re not hikers) to see the valley that Nong Khiaw sits in

There may or may not be GoPro footage of Carissa on hands and knees dragging herself up a steep set of “steps” grimly holding onto some aging knotted rope

We were rewarded with truly stunning vistas at the top of the climb to Pha Daeng Peak and felt quite humbled to be in a place this beautiful We were rewarded with truly stunning vistas at the top of the climb to Pha Daeng Peak and felt quite humbled to be in a place this beautiful

We adored this part of Laos and would absolutely come back some time in future We adored this part of Laos and would absolutely come back some time in future

Next stop: Vietnam 🇻🇳

We had originally planned to travel south from Laos into Cambodia but after actually doing research, our commitment to get from Singapore to Hanoi without flying would’ve meant many days traveling south through very quiet towns and less time overall in Vietnam.

We then planned on getting up to Sapa in the far north of Vietnam but in the dead of winter it’s cold, rainy and misty so instead we will pivot and head across northern central Vietnam and eventually make our way to Hanoi before heading further south to Hoi An (somewhere we missed on our trip to Vietnam over ten years ago).

It’s been mostly good to not have too many things booked further out than a few days, particularly when weather and time changes plans significantly. The flip side of that is some days we’ll spend a few hours figuring out what’s next, finding a hostel or guesthouse and navigating the post COVID (sort of) bus schedules in each country.

Laos was new for both of us and we’re genuinely glad that we can come back here to see Vang Vieng, Vientiane and the Plain of Jars in Phonsavan.

We’re heading off now on a multi day journey across the border into Vietnam in search of the usual suspects — bánh mi, phở and bia hơi (very affordable beer brewed daily!) 🍻